Karpos by Parfumerie Nasreen (2019)

Neutral

Karpos by Parfumerie Nasreen (2019) is perhaps one of the most western-like attars of the range, made to be fruity and sweet; and perhaps not directly-intended as a modern clubbing style, but certainly predisposed for such use. Chock full of fruity notes and a patchouli base with what smells like a bit of benzoin alongside sandalwood, Karpos qualifies in my eyes as a “fruitchouli”, which is a genre I am not super enamored with, although having the saving grace of being an attar instead of a western perfume with nuclear projection. Black Monsoon by Parfumerie Nasreen (2019) seems to be the more male-leaning of the teo modern sweet attars from the range, while Karpos feels more suitable for conventional women’s tastes, although both are unisex. This is also unsurprisingly the best-seller of the attar range the Parfumerie Nasreen boutique has put out.

The opening here is going to be mostly a fruit punch of strawberry, watermelon, pineapple, and dates. These aren’t the calone-1951 or frambinone-powered fruit notes used in designers, but rather feel like they might be more food-grade odorants like you’d find in candy or syrups. This fact adds a bit of gourmand sweetness which might be the result of some ethyl maltol too, and I can tell whoever made this was probably using something of that type, then laying it on top a more-traditional natural attar oil base of patchouli and Mysore sandalwood, and maybe that slight smoothness of benzoin I mentioned above. Once the fruit subsides some, the patchouli and santal shine, although the fruit never fully goes away. Performance is also all day like most of the range, although projection is a bit muted as per the oil format. I’d wear this at night or in cooler month if I was going to use it.

Here we have what basically smells like a local attar maker doing their best approximation of what designer houses churn out for the young and hip crowd, but using essential oils, confectionery flavorants/odorants, and the real good aromatic stuff artisanal junkies go gaga for; which is admittedly a bit fun as most people in the online fragrance community likely believe only big designers using oil houses like IFF can really touch these types of compositions since they literally invented the molecules to do so. Yet, here we have something of a Jo-Ann Fabrics approach to the genre, which is both more rough-hewn and at the same time earnest, authentic, and without banal market copy. Granted, all that is not enough to get a thumbs up from me, on top of the fact I am just generally not an attar person, but the quality is irrefutable. Neutral

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