Pegasus Exclusif by Parfums de Marly (2020)

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Pegasus Exclusif by Parfums de Marly (2020) seems like an unlikely upgrade to the original Pegasus by Parfums de Marly (2011), which was itself content to hum along like most older releases from the brand, whilst newer and more hyped creations such as Layton (2016) carry the brand. Maybe because Layton Exclusif (2017) had some success, Parfums de Marly thought they could dig deeper into the back-catalog and give their B and C list masculines the ultra-luxe upgrade treatment. In reality, what you’re getting when buying something that’s basically 75ml of extrait for the same price as the usual 100ml for eau de parfum is a woodier and drier/spicier take on Pegasus, which may fix some the issues folks had with the original. This is still a very pricey house that effectively makes super-powered compliment bombs with obvious aromachemical bases, so what you’re paying for here is no different than any other past Parfums de Marly fragrance since the launch collection of 2010, in that you’re getting high-end FragBro sauce that charges per hour of projection rather than pretending to be refined or made of the most noble materials. That isn’t to say there is no quality here, but it’s not the quality you expect to go along with the posh French aristocratic marketing, although I think by now I’m preaching to the choir about that particular fact.

The opening of Pegasus Exclusif is very similar to some things from sister company Initio, in particular scents like Initio Rehab (2018) come to mind, a scent itself that I said feels like it contains DNA from the original Pegasus in my review for it. All these PdM/Initio fragrances seem to fall from the same olfactive tree, like a perfumer makes 3 fragrances from a single brief and to keep R&D efficient, the owners just decide to release them all eventually under different names between the two houses. Here, we see pink pepper and cardamom paired with bitter almond and bergamot in the opening. Somewhere between Initio Rehab and Parfums de Marly Kalan (2019) this wanders until the lavender, vanilla, and amber remind you this is meant to be an upgrade to Pegasus. The base goes woody wood wood woodington with a nice New Caledonian sandalwood note, probably the biggest or only natural here, coupled with woody-ambers that take up the names of guaiac wood and oud respectively, padded out with tonka. Sugar cookies and sandalwood incense are what this combination affords my nose, and it’s pleasant, but also very much rote for the brand. Projection is gonna yeet you into space, while longevity is until the fat lady sings. Where to use this? Anywhere you want to make an entrance, day or night, summer or winter. This doesn’t cloy so I imagine you could slide in the heat, even if it isn’t of a style that makes you reach for it in said heat.

Pegasus Exclusif is about as unisex as your typical Initio, since it shares so many common threads with them, while also being sufficiently woody and masculine enough not to ruffle the feathers of the target new money FragBro on his way to lease an M series BMW or get his hair styled at the nearest overpriced men’s grooming salon while checking his SNKR app. People who liked Pegasus will undoubtedly like this too (and I like this), while people not into Pegasus may not find enough difference here to change their mind, which is almost the same deal as with Layton Exclusif. Value for money spent here is measured only in performance, so if making sure everyone withing 3 city blocks of you smells sugar cookies and Chandan sticks isn’t your goal, Pegasus Exclusif isn’t going to be worth it. Naturally, this price is also not worth the end experience from wearing Pegasus Exclusif either, but like a great many Parfums de Marly fragrances I’ve liked, I’d easily add it to the collection if I could have it for a fraction of what Parfums de Marly wants me to pay. Sampling is definitely in order when you have something like this to consider, since your opinions of value may be different than mine, as many ardent PdM fans have proven to me in arguments online. That said, I see nothing otherwise disagreeable about the fragrance. One man’s Mr. Ed may be another man’s Pegasus, and vice versa I suppose. Thumbs up

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